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Eat, Drink, and Be Merry
By Cynthia Barnes Spring
2005
We modern travelers arent the first people to
find the Aeolian islands a great place to play. Check out Liparis
incredible Aeolian Regional Archaeological Museum, located within the
fortress of Castellaro Vecchio. (The Cathedral of Saint Bartholomew, patron
saint of the islands, is also here.) A significant collection of pottery
and other artifacts will fascinate young and old alike. Dont miss
the excavated huts and lava-stone sarcophagi near the museum; a visit
to the Greek-style open-air theater is also in order.
Take a hike through Panareas prehistoric village.
Twenty-three oval stone huts have been found in this Bronze Age settlement.
Stroll around Stromboli and admire the house where Ingrid Bergman and
Roberto Rossellini had their explosive affair while filming the 1949 film
Stromboli.
When youve worked up an appetite, enjoy the Aeolian
cuisine, which makes succulent use of local herbs, seafood, and capers
that are harvested throughout the islands. We ate like emperors everywhere,
but my hands-down favorite was Trattoria de Bartolo on Liparis Via
Garibaldione of the areas oldest eateries and run by a warm
and friendly family. (Strombolis tiny Barbablù comes in a
close second.)
Caveat eater: Asking for a restaurant in
Italy will get you directions to a ristorante. Few and far between in
the Aeolians, these are fancier operations with big menus. Youll
eat as well or better if you request recommendations for trattorias. (Bars
and cafes serve a small selection of serviceable snacks.) Many venues
of all types close as winter approaches. If youre planning an off-season
odyssey, do your research and make your reservations early.
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