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Hands-on advice and instruction.
By Paul Esterle — Fall
2004
The exposed core material should be cut back, leaving a recess around the opening. This recess is then filled with an epoxy mixture. Be sure to use high-density filler in the mixture that won’t compress. Prime the surfaces of the recess with epoxy resin, then fill with the epoxy mixture. The mixture should be stiff enough so that it doesn’t sag out of the recess. Tape can be used to contain epoxy, and syringes can be used to inject it into tight corners. Fill the space completely. Once cured, the epoxy forms a solid, waterproof plug, protecting your deck core.
Fastener holes are next. The object is to remove the core around the hole and replace it with more of the epoxy mixture. Removing the core around the fastener hole can be accomplished by using a small Allen wrench with the end cut short and sharpened. Secure it in a drill, insert it into the fastener hole, and chip away. Vacuum out the debris.
The epoxy syringes work well to fill the void in the core. If the hole passes through the deck, be sure to seal the bottom before injecting the epoxy! You don’t want to go below and find an epoxy stalactite hanging from the overhead. Once the epoxy has hardened, the fastener hole can be redrilled, this time passing through solid epoxy.
REBEDDING
Once the core is sealed from any further water intrusion, you can move on to rebedding the hardware, ports, or hatches. There are many types of sealants available today (see “Selecting a Sealant,”). 3M101 or LifeCaulk are good choices because they seal well and remain flexible, yet can be removed without damaging the gelcoat when it is time to rebed again.
Equally important with the choice of sealant is the method of application. Even the best sealant in the world will fail if it is applied too thinly; it will leak. A thicker layer of sealant will flex with the expansion and contraction of the deck and hardware, so be generous.
There are several ways to make sure there is a proper thickness of sealant under the fitting. The first is simply not tightening the fasteners enough to squeeze out the sealant. Once the sealant has cured, you can further tighten the fastener. This compresses the cured sealant, providing an even better seal. Another, better, method is to place small rubber washers under the fitting. This allows the fastener to be tightened down on the washer instead of squeezing out the sealant.
Before getting to this point, there is some prep work to do. Tape around the area of the fitting with blue masking tape. Locate the fitting and trace around it. Remove the fitting and cut away the tape under where the fitting will go. Tape the sides of the fitting with more blue tape, trimming the tape even with the bottom edge of the fitting.
Put the fasteners in the fitting and apply the rubber washers if you are using them. Slather plenty of sealant on the deck and the fitting. Don’t scrimp, and don’t leave any voids. Put the fitting in place and tighten the fasteners. If you didn’t use the washers, don’t overtighten.
Clean up the squeezed-out sealant with a Popsicle stick with the end cut square. Wipe up the last bit of sealant around the base of the fitting with a paper towel and the appropriate thinner. Carefully pull up the tape, and your cleanup is finished with minimal fuss and muss. Let the sealant cure completely, and don’t apply any loads until it has cured. You can tighten the fasteners after the sealant has cured as long as you only tighten from below. Twisting the fastener from above will break the sealant bond
FINALLY
You may not be able to do all of your necessary rebedding at once, so keep track of what was done when, and add the remaining jobs into your maintenance schedules. Whether you do the work yourself or have a yard do it, the rebedding effort will go a long way in protecting your investment and making your cruising more enjoyable.
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