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This stretch of Florida’s Indian River offers wildlife, elegant views, and plenty to keep a family busy.
By Greg Breining — Spring 2006
Boating on the Indian River from Vero Beach to Fort Pierce, Florida, you’ll find wildlife, natural areas, and good fishing in surroundings that offer great dining, shopping, and sightseeing. Sometimes you’ll motor past grand houses, other times you’ll tuck between dense thickets of mangroves. Bottlenose dolphin break the surface, and manatees bask in the shallows. More than 30 species of birds roost and feed, including brown pelicans, egrets, and herons.
The river, a series of lagoons protected from the Atlantic by a string of barrier islands, varies from miles across to only a half-mile wide at the Vero Beach Narrows. It opens to the sea at several widely spaced inlets. Much of the river is less than three feet deep, but the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers maintains it as the Intracoastal Waterway, on which a 30-mph speed limit applies—and where there are frequent slow-speed zones.
The Vero Beach City Marina and other public marinas between Sebastian and Fort Pierce usually have plenty of transient slips. Hurricanes Frances and Jeanne hammered the region in September 2004, but some areas, such as the Vero Beach marina, escaped without much damage. Others, such as the city marina in Fort Pierce, were still rebuilding at presstime.
From Vero, start exploring by heading north about 15 miles to Sebastian Inlet. Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge (772-562-3909, www.fws.gov/pelicanisland) is the nation’s first national wildlife refuge, established in 1903 by President Theodore Roosevelt to protect shorebirds under attack by market hunters for the millinery trade. Access to the refuge is restricted, but at nearby Sebastian Inlet State Park (321-984-4852, www.floridastateparks.org/sebastianinlet) from January to April, you can join a ranger-led tour of Pelican Island. Also at the state park, check out two museums: The McLarty Treasure Museum features the 1715 Spanish treasure fleet, while The Sebastian Fishing Museum describes the local fishing industry.
When you get hungry, cruise to the river’s west shore and Captain Hiram’s (772-589-4345, www.hirams.com). Take a table on the beach, and try the grilled fish. Another favorite is the Squid Lips Overwater Grill (772-589-3828), built at the end of a 200-foot-long dock with terrific water views. Try the Cajun bacon-wrapped scallops.
After lunch, return south to the City of Vero Beach Marina (772-978-4960, www.covb.org), which offers a free bus to shop downtown. On the west side of the Indian River, you can visit the Vero Beach Museum of Art (772-231-0707, www.vbmuseum.org), whose collection emphasizes Florida artists. To entertain the kids, try the roller skating and video arcade at Skate Factory of Vero (772-794-3373, www.skatefactory.us) or head over to Safari Mini Golf and Games (772-562-6492, www.verobeach.com/minigolf).
For dinner cruise east across the river to Ocean Grill (772-231-5409, www.ocean-grill.com). Built in 1940, the building’s decor is a mix of wrought iron and stained glass salvaged from Palm Beach mansions. Chef Tim McGraw’s choice: fresh fish, or roast duckling served over pecan rice with an orange sherry sauce. For drinks and live music, try the Riverside Cafe (772-234-5550).
If you’d rather catch your own supper, you can usually count on snook, mangrove snapper, redfish, flounder, spotted sea trout, and Spanish mackerel. Stock up on bait at Vero Tackle and Marina (772-234-9585, www.verotackle.com).
It’s a 15-mile run south to Fort Pierce. Tie up at the City Marina (800-619-1780, www.fortpiercecitymarina.com) and shop for Florida landscape paintings at A.E. “Bean” Backus Gallery (772-465-0630, www.backusgallery.com).
For lunch, try the Original Tiki Bar and Restaurant (772-461-0880) at the Fort Pierce City Marina. Then, to gain a better understanding of the waters you’re traveling, visit the Smithsonian Marine Ecosystems Exhibit (772-462-3474, www.sms.si.edu/smeeopening.htm) on South Hutchinson Island. Aquaria provide a window to the environments of the Indian River and more.
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